| So you got a shiny new set of pedals. Now you face | | | | remove it. |
| the challenge of installation. No worries, installing new | | | | (Even if you are turning the correct way, don't be |
| pedals yourself is quick and easy and will save you | | | | surprised if you need to put your shoulder into it; water |
| the additional cost of a bike shop. We've outline the | | | | and time may have removed the grease which will |
| steps required for first timers or those needing a | | | | cause those pesky pedals to stick.) |
| refresher course. | | | | Side Note: With pedals like the Look Keo Carbons you |
| You will need the following | | | | won't use a pedal wrench. These pedals require an |
| Pedal Wrench and/or Allen key (depending on your | | | | Allen key that you place in the spindle from the back |
| pedals) | | | | side. If you have a cadence magnet in there, be sure |
| An old shop towel (paper towel will do too) | | | | to remove it before you attempt to remove the pedal. |
| Cotton Swabs | | | | Installing the new pedals: |
| Grease | | | | So now that the old pedals are off, it's time to clean |
| Removing the old pedals: | | | | out the threads on your crank arm to remove any dirt |
| Put the old shop towel (or paper towel) under your | | | | or old grease. This is where the Cotton Swabs come |
| workspace just in case. Place your bike on the ground | | | | in handy. |
| over the shop towel, or if you have a work stand, all | | | | Once it's clean, you get to muck it up again with the |
| the better. If you're using a work stand, place your | | | | new grease! Place a strip of grease on both threads |
| hand on the rear wheel or grab the brake to stop the | | | | of the pedals. After they are greased, put them on, but |
| wheel from spinning. Yeah, I know, no brainer, but | | | | only use your fingers to catch the threads and tighten |
| sometimes you forget! | | | | them up to your crank arm. Don't use the tools until |
| Be sure to shift the chain on to the big ring before you | | | | they are sufficiently finger tightened. And again, |
| remove the pedals so you don't cut yourself on the | | | | remember, the left pedal is reverse threaded. Take |
| chain ring teeth. They are sharp. | | | | your time and you won't strip your crank. |
| Now you can remove the pedals. Your right pedal will | | | | After the pedals are finger tightened, take out the |
| come off just like any other bolt system you've used. | | | | pedal wrench (or Allen key if that's what is needed). |
| Turning the spindle counter-clockwise (left) will loosen | | | | Snug the pedals up to your crank arm (typically ¼ to |
| the pedal. No problem. | | | | ½ of a turn is tight enough). Once firmly in place, use |
| However, the left pedal is reversed threaded and will | | | | your old rag to wipe up the excess grease and you |
| need to be turned clockwise (right) to loosen. This is so | | | | are ready to ride. |
| you don't inadvertently unscrew your pedal while riding. | | | | After you've taken her out a few times, check the |
| It makes sense, but can get frustrating if you don't | | | | pedals again to ensure they are still nice and snug |
| remember that the old rule of lefty loosy righty tighty | | | | against that crank arm. And if you do a lot of wet |
| DOES NOT apply when you are dealing with the left | | | | weather riding, it's a good idea to remove the pedals to |
| side pedal. Too many have made the mistake of not | | | | give them a little more grease from time to time. If |
| reading that part and then get frustrated when they | | | | you've ever had your pedals seize to a crank arm, |
| tighten the left side so tight it requires a hammer to | | | | you'll know why it's worth the extra effort. |